Living in Gwangju – Proud to be a Gwangjuite
The elderly, hunched-over woman stopped what she was doing, smiled at me, and finally understood what I was requesting. She took me by the arm and guided me through the quiet but expensive looking restaurant. I was eventually led through the back doors onto the empty patio. I wasn’t disappointed.
The city of Gwangju, or at least much of it, lay across the landscape, cuddled by the mountainous region that is home to the famous (at least among Gwangjuites) Mudueng Mountain. My camera was clicking away moments later. It didn’t seem to bother her that I wasn’t going to buy anything, and that I was there just for the view.
Gwangju has a small city feel to it but is actually larger than every city in the UK, with London the exception (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_largest_United_Kingdom_settlements_by_population).
It isn’t the most spectacular of cities, or modern, or artistic, or beautiful, or diverse, but there’s a charming appeal to it that persuades expats to call the city their home-away-from-home.
The people here are welcoming towards us. Of course, there are exceptions but I’m yet to come across one. During my 10 minute stroll from work to home I’ll say hello to the kids in the housing estate I walk through, the fruit and veg man will wave to me, the little lady in the restaurant close to my apartment will shout to me from across the street. All of them smile and say hello, all of them try to help me even if I don’t ask for it, and all of them know my name despite me never telling it to them.
Like the little old lady in the restaurant, people in Gwangju always seem happy to lend a hand even in the absence of reciprocity.
The expat community – a veritable mixture of characters – is a hub of activity if you know where to look. Speakeasy and German bar are two popular watering holes in city, where live music, poetry, and pub quizzes regularly draw members of the expat comunidad together.
For the artistically orientated, there’s always something new and exciting taking place. In the past month the city has seen an art exhibition by local artist Brian Hunter, a photo exhibit for the Gwangju Photography club, and performances of The Real Inspector Hound. We also have a fantastic alternative magazine, run by Joe Wabe, called Art Elemento which he makes free to the public while generously footing the bill.
For the philanthropists, there are many highly active individuals who do an amazing job organising charity events around the city.
Never has the strength of our expat group been so evident than when long term expat, Michael Simning, became ill. News of his illness and need of blood donours spread like wildfire through the blogosphere and Facebook. People who’d never met him immediately had their blood type checked in the hope of helping. One very rainy, miserable Saturday morning around 30 foreigners were combing the streets of Gwangju together in search of a nearby hospital to check our blood type.
A fundraiser was held for him at the local radio station to help pay for medical costs. The number of attendees far exceeded the number of available seats, but those sitting on the floor had no complaints. That evening burned itself into my memory, not because of the great performances on show, but for the incredible show of unity to help this person that many of us had never met. It sent a shiver down my spine and made me feel proud to be a part of this lovely community, if even for a short while.
In 2 months and 5 days we’ll leave Gwangju, probably for good. The fondness I feel for the place has left me feeling torn. Our plan, our 3 year language learning adventure, is more exciting than we realise, I think. But knowing that we’re soon to leave this charming city and the comfortable lifestyle it affords us clouds that excitement; because in truth, although we may never see the city again, it, and the friends we’ve made here, will never be far from our minds.
P.s. Don’t forget to help out another expat, Michael Milne, who is recovering in hospital from a serious operation.
Downtown at night
View from the restaurant
Downtown during the day
View from Cheosun University
